On September 11, 2001, we cancelled our annual trip to New York, after a certain unpleasantness took place in that city. The airline, which had just seen 3 of its aircraft experience controlled flight into buildings, and had lost another one out in Pennsylvania on the way to no good itself, gave us our money back.
This left us with some extra money and time, and so we picked a nearby driving destination for an alternate little trip. We did what people in El Lay have been doing for a cheap quickie since the water company built a dam in 18-something, and went to Lake Arrowhead, which I'd by some weird twist of fate missed ever visiting.
I'm something of a conoisseur of nosebleed roads hereabouts. I rate them on a 0-10 scale, where 0 is the Santa Ana Freeway and 10 is the Mount Wilson Fire Road, an experience that makes Wolf Creek Pass look tame. The road up to Arrowhead came in around 8.75. It was beautiful. All the heat and smog dropped away, the light changed, and the vegetation took on a fall look almost as good as New York would have been. The road kept switching back on itself, climbing vertiginously to a 5000-foot clifftop where it became the well-named "Rim of the World Highway." Such a rim in the ocean would definitely have sent Columbus back to Spain in terror, a broken man, welcoming his certain decapitation at the hands of Ferd and Izzy.
After hanging over this abyss for a number of miles, we reached a turnoff, and took a beautiful trip into Arrowhead itself. The best thing about this area was its enormous, old, Ponderosa pines. Between the obscene, corporate desecration of the giant redwoods and sequoias in the north of our state, and the belchings of a million SUVs stunting too many of the pines down here, there really aren't many places left that have that true, majestic, California, old-growth, forest look. But this, surprisingly, was one of them.
We hung out in Arrowhead for about a week. It was warm in the day and New York-cold at night. The experience was surprisingly wonderful, and wonderfully surprising. In fact, it was far better than Big Bear down the road, which is more resort-y and skier-y.
Early on, the bourgeoisie had discovered Arrowhead. They were still very much there, throwing up gargantuan, $2.5 million, "vacation homes" all the way around the lake. Places big enough to house 10 families in Haiti sat shuttered and empty for months at a time.
Farther back from the lake were the full-time residences of ordinary people who just wanted to be in the mountains. These were your typical, attractive mountain houses, a few A-frames, a few yuppie design statements, but mostly just the kind of modest property one sees all around the San Bernardino National Forest.
The locals didn't have to like us, but they did, and we got into some wonderful conversations. Outside of town was a real, working observatory, that someone had built just to have a real, working observatory. Going the other way, one found a strange and wonderful little neighborhood up one hill, where the women were into dirt biking and a tame wolf wandered the street. I even found two of the right kind of pre-stretched artist canvases at a nondescript little mom-and-pop everything-store where we'd stopped for drinks. Into the car trunk they went, and there was one less thing to do on return to L.A..
If the wind blew, the trees all gave off a soothing, white noise that swirled around from all directions. If the wind stopped, you had that same, above-the-inversion, dead stillness which makes Mount Wilson such a spiritual experience back in L.A.
I always remembered Arrowhead, and its beauty, and how for a week there had been something to think about, and meditate on, besides Bush, Ashcroft, war, fear, Anthrax, and The Next Attack.
Unfortunately, we probably saw the last such fall in poor wonderful Arrowhead. There were problems even when we were there. The climate in Southern California has changed in the last 20 years, almost certainly due to global warming, though you'll never get anyone to admit this on the record. The rainy season starts later, when it comes at all, and then it's over too fast to restore the water table. When it does last longer, there's a flood, but that's another story.
Arrowhead, for some reason, gets the worst of this. They've had a severe drought as long as anyone can remember. Even when it does rain (or snow), it seems to pass Arrowhead by. When we were there in 2001, the lake had dropped something like 17 feet, leaving many boat docks high and dry.
It got far, far worse. Starting in 2002, the forest died.
One never hears about this ecological calamity, because the media don't cover ecological calamities. But let's cut to the chase: The entire San Bernardino National Forest is dead. Gone. Period.
By 2003, it was only painfully obvious to scientists and public alike that there would soon be no pine trees left, at all. Coniferous trees are giving in to the drought, all the way down to San Diego, but it's worst in Arrowhead. What the bark beetles didn't get, the fungus did. R.I.P.. The whole forest. A 40-mile-long ridgetop, as densely wooded as any mountain in the United States, was guaranteed to turn brown and ugly, until taken over by secondary growth in time.
For two years, the problem became what to do with the dead remains of the formerly best forest in California. Locals got permission to cut down a few of the deadest trees, and stack the long wooden logs. Most of the dead trees, however, just sat there, while people decided who was going to have to pay for this mess.
It's one of those ironies that make capitalism so infuriating. There's been more than enough money to log off the sacred groves of the north, but none to take out Arrowhead's dead trees. And so they just stood there, deader than last year's Christmas tree, waiting to explode.
I mean really. Have you ever set fire to last year's Christmas tree? Fess up. C'mon, all the guys know what I'm talking about. They were little boys once too.
Scary huh? Bet you didn't play with fire for at least a whole month after that one.
Now imagine 5 million of last year's Christmas tree, all 60 feet high, completely enveloping a series of small towns totalling maybe 70,000 in population. Not a good feeling.
Bureaucratic wheels turned fitfully, groaning and creaking, but nothing happened until this week. Finally, the bill to commit the first $10 million, a tiny fraction of the amount that will be needed, made it to conference committee in Congress. It was given a good chance to pass.
There is only one little problem. Much of the forest just burned down.
Now, California burns every fall, but this year is different. It's meaner, it's everywhere at once, and it doesn't let up. It's already burned off an area larger than Rhode Island, eaten at least 2000 buildings, and killed one fire fighter. Control is weeks off.
Humans get tired and drop, but the fire doesn't. Fire fighters are doing an incredible job, on very little rest, but much of the time they're outflanked. They'll be the first to tell you that they've won the battles and lost the war. They've been done in partly by weather, but mostly by too much political bureaucracy, too much BS, too many cuts for too many years, too many misplaced priorities, and too many people talking instead of doing.
We've failed as a culture. We've gone right on consuming, devouring, burning carbon, building better and deadlier bombs, indulging our fantasies of global empire, and cutting back at home, over and over again. It's been decades since our priorities have included essential public safety services, and good forest management. Wildfires in other states gave a clear warning of the catastrophe in store if Southern California ever went off all at once. Was anyone learning? Sure doesn't look that way.
Now, we get to be the ones who are Shocked and Awed. Up in Arrowhead, it's the damndest firestorm in California history, 2500 degrees F, a Hiroshima bomb's worth every 20 minutes, with flames shooting 300 feet into the air. Fire hoses do absolutely nothing, as the water vaporizes in mid-air. Whole streets of buildings simply vanish, turning instantly to exploding gases and evil black smoke. Cars don't burn as much as they melt. A nuke cloud rises three miles into the sky before blowing hundreds of miles downwind.
It shows up on the weather satellite pictures, and why not? It is the weather. The air in this part of L.A., 70 miles west, is opaque. Measured 1.5 mile visibility at the airport, and it's all smoke. The sunlight is red and the shade is yellow-pink. The setting moon is orange. My green car is a dirty brownish-white from the ash, which I'm warned eats the paint. Apparently they're having the same problems in Las Vegas, 200 miles the other way, and in Arizona. It's covering the whole US southwest.
As I write this, Arrowhead's fate is very much unknown. The power lines are gone, the population has fled, the smoke and flame have blocked all visibility, the harsh mountain winds shift every few hours, and the fire fighters run from one sudden explosion to the next. Right now, the worst damage appears to be in a place called Hook Canyon, just east of the lake, but a good ways up into the hills. Much of it looks like a nuke scene. However, that was two wind shifts ago. Nobody has the slightest idea how this one will end. It will be days before we finally know what will get to remain there, and what won't.
This pisses me off, and saddens me, at the same time. I loved Arrowhead, for being beautiful, and for getting my mind off politics for a whole week right after 9/11. It was a dream of a place, and it will be again, in 5 years. Eventually, that wet-ash smell will finally all blow away, the soil will turn green instead of white, the secondary growth will soften the post-nuclear outlines of scorched chimneys, the rockslides will stop, and Arrowhead will achieve a new and different sort of beauty. The people, being adaptable mountain people, will prevail. Mountain people always do. But this forest didn't have to die, and this fire didn't have to happen.
I hope there's one hell of a stink about this, but I suspect that there won't be. There's no one in a foreign country that we can blame for it.
Unless, of course, Texas secedes again.